Missing Spain in Portugal

Jenny didn’t leave Spain to go back home to Birmingham. She didn’t travel north. No, Jenny moved further south.

She left Valencia, where she loved the paella and various rice dishes, to move to Portugal. Not solely for warmer climes, but also to sample the food of another country – albeit one not a million miles from Spain.

She is a gastronomic tourist. Have food, will travel is her motto.

So what does she miss about eating in Spain?
She tells me via the telephone of a Portuguese bar: “I miss the restaurants on the beaches outside Valencia. I miss the paella, the fideau (noodle paella) and the black rice.

“I miss classic Valencian meals such as stuffed squid (calamares rellenos) and drinks as varied as Horchata and Agua de Valencia. And, of course, the oranges from Valencia.
And I miss certain fish dishes. Portugal may not be far from Spain but you would be surprised how different the fish dishes are here. I actually think the chefs down this way are more inventive when cooking fish and seafood, but I do miss the simplicity and the subtle ways in which they prepare, cook and serve fish in Spain.”

What, I wonder, were her favourite Spanish dishes that she would happily recommend to those who are tentative about trying new culinary experiences in Spain?

She says: “Well, of course, it does depend on whereabouts they are in Spain. Should they be on the Costa Blanca or up my old way in Valencia I would suggest they try some nice Monkfish, perhaps with a lemon sauce.
“Alternatively, if down south around Malaga way, then they must try some chunky sardines. Or a Malaga noodle stew with clams.
“If people are up the other end of Spain, where Galicia meets northern Portugal, then they must try a Galician stew or soup. And the Octopus (pulpo a la gallega) is a favourite of mine.

Jenny has travelled all over Spain tasting food of the regions. Now she is undertaking the same gastronomic mission in Portugal.
Are there connections between the food of the two countries and what do they do better over the border in Portugal?

She tells me: “Overall, in my opinion, the seafood dishes are better in Portugal. For me only Galicia serves seafood meals that are as good as those I have been served in Portugal.

“For example, the classic Cataplana served down here is consistently good. Even in the tourist areas it is better than the paella served in the most tourist packed parts of Spain. And I think it is that factor, the level of consistency, that sets Portugal apart from Spain.
“I sometimes found in Spain that even the same restaurant didn’t serve the same meal, the same way on two separate visits.
“But make no mistake about it. The fish served in Spain is excellent and I think it is best served simply. Spanish chefs often don’t know what they are doing with sauces, so I think they are right to simply grill or bake fish such as bream and serve it without any additional fuss.

“There is much I miss about Spanish food and I was initially taken back by how very different the same fish or seafood is served in Portugal. And dinner is served earlier here, between 7.30pm and 9pm, more like the time you would go out to eat in Britain. That took some getting used to. I do like the fact that spices are more evident here. Cumin, coriander and chili are used in greater quantity here than in Spain”

So, I asked Jenny, when she next hops over the border between Portugal and Spain; which will be the first Spanish food she buys or meal she seeks out?

“Well”, she tells me, “firstly I would be crossing the border in the north of each country. That way I can go to Braga or Chaves in Portugal and eat veal fillet in Madeira wine or some salt cod. Then I would take a little ferry over to Galicia and head straight for a bar where I would ask for a hot and spicy seafood soup.
“That way I will have enjoyed the best of both worlds. It sounds like a good idea. I may have to make that road trip soon.”

Next up I catch up with a man who went back home to London and is searching for the taste of the Barcelona he left behind. And is still looking.