Duck Farming and Foie Gras

Duck farming is big business in the Navarra region of Spain. But the farming of duck, geese and even free range chicken has taken flight and can now be found cross much of northern and western Spain.

For many years wild duck has enjoyed a good reputation and been sought after.
In flight their last sight has been of the Pyrenees before ending up in a pot or oven in Navarra. The domestic duck, however, has been a rare sight.

For years there was little appetite in Spain for cooking duck.

Duck farming has always been popular across the border in France but took some time to make its mark in Spain.

Directly over the border from Navarra is the Landes region of France where the rearing and processing of duck is one of the foremost businesses.

As recently as 1985 the first duck farm was established in Navarra by a company called Marriko. They farm ducks that are part of the Mulard breed. These ducks are very meaty and can reach weights of up to six kilograms.

Also there is the fattened duck liver (foie gras). Something which divides opinion not only among those who eat it, but also those who serve it up in restaurants worldwide.

Dan Barber is a chef and owner of several restaurants in New York.
Like many American culinary connoisseurs, he has visited Spain to see how food is produced there. Especially geese and duck.

Unlike some in the United States, he is a big fan of foie gras.
He says: "I went to Spain and had the best foie gras ever and the best culinary experience of my life. I am convinced that what i saw in the country was the future of cooking. In San Francisco if a chef puts foie gras on his menu, he risks being attacked. For a while serving it was even outlawed in Chicago.

"When I went to Extremadura I saw first hand a system of farming that is complex, but at the same time utterly simple. I met a farmer called Eduardo Sousa (photographed here) who told me that his life's work was to give the geese what they want.

“After harvesting, he takes the foie gras and the liver and sticks them in a jar and he confits it. No salt, pepper, oil or spices. It truly was the best foie gras of my life. I don't think I had truly had foie gras until that moment."

Duck farming has spread its wings across Spain. In Catalonia you'll find it taking place in San Marti Sapresa and, year on year, more and more duck farms are operating.

Other products available include fresh duck livers (higado de pato), duck breast (pechuga de pato), duck hearts (corazones de pato), smoked duck ham (jamón de pato ahumado) and duck fillet (solomillo de pato).
Whole duck lends itself to many Spanish recipes these days, some of which you will find under the recipe section of this site.

Meanwhile, ham is made from the mulard breed. It is more succulent and tender than with other ducks. That is crucial for the production of the top quality confit de pato (duck meat cooked in its own fat).

Dan Barber left Spain for his return journey to New York. Before doing so he asked his new friend, Eduardo from Extremadura a question. Dan takes up the tale.
"I said: You are in Spain Eduardo. Some of the greatest chefs in the world are in Spain. Why are you not famous for your foie gras? Why are chefs in Spain not serving your foie gras?
He said to me in reply: 'Because chefs don't deserve my foie gras.'
"And, having tasted it, I think he is right"

Barber said of his culinary visit to Spain: "It was transformative. Seeing how duck and geese farming works there was truly a revelation. I don't think I'll ever serve foie gras on my own menu again because of that taste experience with Eduardo in Spain. It was incredible."